My Story: Two Days in Shiretoko

Untouched by people, Shiretoko, derives its name from the Ainu word "sir etok" which means "the ends of the Earth." This far-flung peninsula offers a treasure of natural wonder to travelers willing to risk a chance encounter with one of Hokkaido’s fearsome brown bears. 

My journey to Shiretoko began in late October. Day one began in Kushiro, with a detour to Nemuro, Japan's easternmost point (well, the point you can conveniently get to), followed by a drive up the coast to camp in Rausu. Day two started with a drive up the winding Shiretoko pass, which bisects the peninsula, followed by a walk around the Five Lakes, and a final pit stop at the sulpherous Mt. Io. A busy journey and one that showcased the beauty of the region.

Before, I received a warning to be on the lookout for bears that wander onto the roads that course through their woodland domain. My colleague showed me a video displaying how close they will get to cars, and their reluctance to retreat off the roads and into safety. Along the scenic drive, I kept an eye out for any lurking close by and ready to saunter into my path, but instead, a large number of deer lined the forest roads. Perhaps the bears were waiting for a match between deer vs car ready to pick off whichever side fared worse. 

Hokkaido’s defining symbol and biggest draw, especially in its East, is its plentiful nature; where green thick foliage dominates. The drive took many winding roads through these thick woodlands that sat next to the gentle streams of water running below the road. It was a serene experience, and the lack of towns or civilization as we drove ever northwards lends to the experience of leaving the world behind and entering into the wild. 

I traveled through the town of Rausu to a small campsite on a hill, tucked away in a clearing of the woods. Somehow despite the idea of bears being in the same woods, I felt at ease. Bears themselves may be the biggest threat in the area, but they're not creatures who go out of their way to look for a fight. Most incidents involving bears come about from them trying to protect their cubs. I suspect the proximity of the town meant that the bears wouldn’t venture into this area.

As the sky turned dark (being autumn, this was something that occurred before I'd eaten my dinner), I walked across the road, and over a small bridge into the woods to a rotenburo which is an outdoor open-air onsen. A cabin I passed led to a women-only facility while the men's pool sat in the open next to a small hut used to changing.. 

There's something to be said for the restorative powers of nature. The level of peace found from sitting in hot onsen waters, the smell of wet woodland in the air, a low mist clinging to the ground, and the sound of birds chirping in the trees did wonders for my soul. It was a calming and peaceful time that brought sound sleep.

Early morning began with a drive up the mountain pass to stunning views. As we climbed, we saw a view over the mountains and to the sea. The islands of Etorofu and Kunashiri, which are a sticking point between Russia and Japan, were visible through the fog and clouds. Whilst I imagine the view is clearer in the summer months, the mysterious aura created by mystical fog floating over the mountaintops impressed me. It is the sort of view that I imagine would be spectacular to witness at the dawn’s break.

Beautiful alpine scenes flanked snaking roads. In the winter the passes close as the level of snowfall creates walls of snow 10m high! Something which I imagine is another sight to behold. Shiretoko’s offerings are different in winter, with the main attractions coming from boat cruises along the coast among drift ice floating in from Russian waters. A fitting symbol of the cold relationship between the two nations over control of disputed islands.  Hard winters of recent years have impacted the local wildlife, with bears struggling to find enough fish to allow them to suitably hibernate over the cold months. I hoped not to see any at my next destination, the Five Lakes of Shiretoko. 

I'm in time for the first tour group around the site. The tour started with a presentation about the importance of the area, and how much work has been completed to balance the tourism industry while leaving nature untouched. Clothes and shoes are brushed ensuring no foreign plants are introduced. Several years ago, some seeds clung to a park visitor which resulted in the Bull Thistle growing in the national park and now a small part of Scotland grows now in Japanese soil. 

Despite the presence of people, bears frequent this area. A calendar presented at the start shows a bear sighting almost every other day. Visitors are encouraged to wear bells or clap as they walk to inform bears of their presence and give them enough warning to leave the area and protect themselves. If you do happen across a bear you're told to slowly back away while facing the bear, indicating you're not a threat. Thankfully my visit was as bear-free as my drive up, and I got to walk around the longer of the two routes unscathed.  The stunningly beautiful woodlands and the five lakes, each holding their characteristics and slightly different from one another.

The eruption of Mt Io created the lakes themselves. Not to be confused with another similarly named mountain in Kawayu Onsen further south of Shiretoko. Mt. Io is fed by geothermal springs underground, and legend has it that five lakes are the fingerprints left by the Hand of a God. While the path through the forest leads you past most of the lakes, the final one is often free from any visitors and an elevated wooden walkway helps to preserve the land beneath. Mountains and forests line the horizon, which again were covered with a ring of mist for my visit. Plenty of deer and birds graced me with their presence as I strolled through the route and again back to the car park.

Mt. Io itself is a rarity in its many yellow, sulfurous rocks jutting from the soil and filling the air with the all too memorable odor. Signposts indicate vents of hot air, and even from a foot away, the heat is evident. Small pools of water bubble away, fed from the hot water running below the surface. A small visitors center hosts a shop and museum exploring the history of Mt. Io although it should be noted this is exclusively in Japanese so all I could do was admire the pictures.

Nature in Hokkaido, from its volcanic mountains to striking seascapes, and all of the impressive wildlife in between offers an unblemished view of nature. I am saddened by the fact Hokkaido is overlooked by visitors to Japan. Hokkaido is largely absent from the cultural aesthetics for which many visit the country. However, Hokkaido’s palatial nature is worth the trek off the and into the wild.

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